Sunday, July 4, 2010

risotto

risotto


I saw an episode of Food Network's "Chopped" where one of the contestants prepared risotto. The Italian judge on the panel panned the effort, "This is a disservice to the world of risotto," or something close to that. I thought, "Poor guy. Probably doesn't even know what to aim for." Come to think of it, neither do I.

I never had risotto prepared by a real live Italian, nor have I ever had it at a restaurant. All I know about it is what I've seen on TV and read in McGee's On Food and Cooking and Ari Weinzweig's Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating.

Zingerman's,Zingerman's

Zingerman's is an Ann Arbor deli. Weinzweig traveled the world, Western world mostly, for the best ingredients for his deli. Along the way he got himself educated on all aspects of food preparation. I'd recommend the book only if you're interested in that sort of thing. All his recommendations are upper end and mostly expensive. Regarding risotto, Weinzweig insists not just any rice will do. He explains at length the story behind Italian rices and recommends Arborio with a caution about fakes. His personal favorite is Carnaroli, and he gives Vialone nano honorable mention. According to Weinzweig:

Rule 1: Use short-grain Italian rice. It's got to be Italian.

Rule 2: Buy or make better broth. In a pinch, canned will do. Italians often used cubed bullion, but Weinzweig doesn't like that. Too processed. Use aprox 6X as much broth by volume as uncooked rice.

Rule 3: Use the right pot. Wide, heavy. Rice must have room to roam. Heat olive oil/butter, saute chopped onion, add rice, cook for a few minutes.

Rule 4: Consider beginning with a cup of wine. 1/2 glass of white wine before adding the broth

Rule 5: Add broth slowly. Broth should be as hot or hotter than the rice it's being added to incrementally. 1/4 cup ladle-full at a time.

Rule 6: Keep the rice pot hot.

Rule 7: Stir, stir, stir.

Jesus Christ it's a lot of rules then innit.

Rule 8: Keep it simple. [How ironic!] Anything can be added to risotto but try to keep it to three extraneous ingredients.

Weinzweig then goes on to tell you what brands of imported rice to buy, and it's expensive. Well, I didn't do that so I imagine an Italian judge would rip me to shreds on national television for not getting it exactly right even though I think it's fantastic. And it is! I really should order this some time so I have a basis of comparison.

I had only 3/4 cup Arborio rice remaining from that bag I scooped out of the bulk bins at Whole Foods. I measured 3/4 cup of chicken broth five times into another pot. Heated olive oil/butter, added 1 large diced shallot. Heated the rice until the shallot turned gold. Added broth, WOOSH, just like it's supposed to. Kept adding broth by the ladle-full until it was all absorbed. I didn't time it but it was about 1/2 hour. Added chopped sweet peas and left-over spinach with the last ladel of broth. Removed from heat, added grated Parmigiano.

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